At a time when sustainability in fashion is penetrating all industries, prompting legislation, and entering the halls of museums such as the MOMA in New York, with the “Material Ecology” show from architect and designer Neri Oxman, Interfillière Paris is pursuing its involvement in highlighting textile innovations, and encourages sustainable initiatives amongst its exhibiting suppliers.
In France, 2.6 billion garments are introduced to the market each year. We’re wearing clothing for shorter periods, and over 60% of these textile pieces are not recycled. Sources: TLC. We also know that the public at large is expressing a growing demand for transparency on the environmental impact of textile production. This is forcing brands to manage not just their supply chains, but also understand each stage of textile creation and development, from internal logistics through to the end of product life.
On the industry side, the 2020 “State of fashion” report published by Business Of Fashion and McKinsey Consulting reveals that “in 2020, the question of sustainability will be both the biggest challenge and the biggest opportunity for the industry…67% of brands surveyed believe that using innovative, sustainable materials is an absolute priority for their firm”.
In terms of government, in February, the “Anti-waste” law was passed in France and commits the country to the circular economic model. This law, put forward by Ms. Brune Poirson, State Secretary for the Ecological Transition, proposes to set up a system that aims to rank garments according to their energy efficiency (level of CO2 emissions, water and natural resource consumption, air pollution, waterway pollution generated during the manufacturing process). Indeed, starting in June 2020, we will find, on the labels of our fashion purchases, a grade from A to E that will indicate their level of eco-responsibility. This law also seeks to “motivate manufacturers to transform their production processes” and moves us toward enacting transparency throughout the value chain.
After spotlighting new, leading eco-friendly brands in lingerie within an Organic space in January, Interfillière Paris wants to keep supporting such brands involved in sustainable procurement using informative tools and experts made available by the show. These brands are highly involved in eco-friendly sourcing initiatives, as is the case with Simplement Lingerie, which bases its brand concept on the choice of basic materials that are OEKOTEX organic certified, or Nénés Paris, whose laces are made using recycled polyester yarn.
Interfillière Paris wants to take things a step further and support manufacturers’ excitement around these concepts by creating a major event around the first-ever “Interfilière Sustainable Awards”, with an awards ceremony that will take place at the Palais de Chaillot on Sunday, June 28, 2020.
This premiere will be a chance to evaluate what’s new and happening in terms of solutions on offer, and, more than anything, will increasingly encourage the concept of “producing better so we can consume better”. Stay tuned…We’ll be sharing more details soon.
By Aude Penouty
“Aude Penouty is a fashion consultant specializing in creative and sustainable solutions for the design and sourcing of lingerie | swimwear. She has become a cultural observer thanks to her multicultural background and has worked on 3 continents: Europe (Paris and Milan), USA (New York) and Asia (Vietnam). With more than 14 years of experience as a fashion designer, she collaborates with well known international players in the fashion industry: lingerie brands, manufacturers, sourcing agents, trend bureaus and media.
In 2014, she founded in Asia the consulting firm Entada Textile, then relocated to France in 2018. Aude is very enthusiastic about new technologies and sustainable fashion, she closely follows the fashion tech community and in 2019, she receives a certificate for the course on solutions and issues related to sourcing in luxury, a diploma from the London College of Fashion.
As a designer, she sharpens her curiosity through music, writing, dance and travel. Supporting her research with a list of unexpected books, visits to key trade shows and multi-media sources to work on colours and textures ranging from science to pastry! “